How the equestrian influence has underpinned many fashion turning points.
Equestrianism has had a heavy influence on fashion for hundreds of years, and certainly still underpins a huge quantity of fashion houses. From tailored blazers to knee high boots, to the essence of brands being centred around horses and the equestrian lifestyle, more brands than we may realise buy into and originate from the horsey lifestyle.
Origins
There are many theories as to why this is, the first being that many luxury fashion brands started off selling equestrian products that has lead the natural pathway to modern undertone of equestrianism. Hérmes is a classic example of how a fashion brand has started off selling horse riding accessories and now is one of the most prestigious luxury leather goods producers in the industry. Thierry Hermès began making equestrian harnesses in a small workshop in Basse-du-Rempart, Paris in 1837, until his son, Charles-Émile Hermès opened a new store in 1880, producing made to measure leather saddles. It wasn’t until 1925 that the brand started looking at creating their first garment which was the men’s golf jacket.
Another prime example is Gucci, who’s founder, Guccio Gucci, spent a portion of his early career living and working in England at The Savoy Hotel in London, worked as a bellboy where he was exposed to the high net-worth clients of the hotel that would use horse and carriage. When returning to Italy in 1923, he opened up his shop, House of Gucci, combining his inspiration of the sophisticated English taste with his available Tuscan leather resources to create the first release of his leather bags. From this point, he then went on to craft bags with the silhouette of the equestrian saddle, and then the infamous Gucci Bamboo 1947 handbag, which is highly sought-after to this day.
The Equestrian Motif
Many brands resonate with the equestrian icon as it historically symbolised the wealth of individuals of the upper class. Throughout history, desirable potential consumers were those who could be found watching the polo, fox-hunting or the races, and even owning their own horses. Moreover, the horse symbolises elegance and strength, with their long history steeped in war, they connote patriotism and pride within British heritage.
Dior Saddle Bag Campaign
Items such as the Dior Saddle Bag, originally designed by John Galliano in 1999 for the 2000 collection drop and the Gucci Horse Bit Loafer, created by Aldo Gucci in the 1950’s are examples of how this trend has influenced fashion houses to the present today.
Modern Day Equestrianism in Fashion
It is interesting to see how equestrian fashion has influenced the modern day aesthetics, one example being the knee-high boot. The boots were originally made from supple leather, to allow freedom of movement in the saddle, to protect the riders inner legs against the stirrup leathers and had a prominent heel as a safety feature to assist with the correct positioning of the foot in the stirrup. Now, they are considered a fashion-forward staple, having been transported from the country-life home to the modern cities, their silhouette is considered a statement to be worn with a bootcut jean or a short skirt. André Courrèges (French designer) and Mary Quant (British designer) lead the way when taking elements of the equestrian style to the runways in the mid 1900’s. They took inspiration from the accessories of the horse-rider and elevated them with their own spin, creating the iconic go-go boots from newer materials such as patent leather.